In an extraordinary achievement for local Filipino cuisine, two unassuming Cebu eateries have earned prestigious Michelin Bib Gourmand recognition, putting the spotlight on authentic Filipino flavors and traditional cooking methods.
The Fire That Fuels Tradition
At Esmen Carinderia in Barangay Pasil, Cebu, the day begins with the primal ritual of fire-making. Staff members stoke open flames each morning, creating an atmosphere reminiscent of cinematic beacon-lightings, but with a very practical purpose: cooking that connects to ancient traditions.
Eping Garcia, the son of the carinderia's original founders, explains their commitment to wood-fired cooking. "We believe that cooking on open fire using wood just gives our stew that distinct flavor," he shared. "It's really different when cooking with wood compared to gas. Wood gives off an aroma that makes your food more tasty and aromatic."
The establishment, named after Eping's parents, has been serving customers since 1958 - the same year Eping was born. As second-generation owner and the third of eight siblings, he has witnessed the evolution of their menu while maintaining their culinary heritage.
From Sea Turtles to Award-Winning Stew
The carinderia's journey hasn't been without adaptation. Eping recalls how they once served exotic seafood like pawikan (sea turtle), iho (shark), and pagi (stingray) until conservation laws required menu changes. They promptly complied, shifting their focus to other local specialties.
Today, their most famous dish is linarang - a hot and sour seafood stew that has become their signature offering. The star ingredient? Tagotongan (porcupine fish), which Eping describes as having succulent meat that's specially prepared for safety and flavor.
"The porcupine fish is really popular," Eping explained. "Our specialized cooking process ensures it is safely prepared for the linarang stew, which is the best way to enjoy the fish."
Unexpected Recognition and Community Pride
The Michelin recognition came as a surprise to both establishments, who nearly missed the announcement due to disbelief and communication mishaps.
"The email got buried and we weren't able to pay attention to it," admitted Eping, who initially hesitated about participating in what he perceived as an elite ceremony. The family's humility almost cost them their moment of recognition.
Similarly, Pares Batchoy Food House on C. Rodriguez in Cebu City almost overlooked their achievement. Store supervisor Khrisna Kara Cabaron confessed: "We received an email from the Michelin Guide and we just ignored it because we thought it was a scam. It was just in our Spam folder."
The restaurant learned about their Bib Gourmand status through local media. "We were just as shocked as everybody else that Pares Batchoy Food House was included in the Michelin Bib Gourmand list," said Cabaron.
Celebrating Filipino Culinary Innovation
Pares Batchoy Food House, though known for classic Filipino street food like beef pares and batchoy, has expanded into creative territory. Their Crispy Sinigang has become a must-try dish, alongside other innovative offerings like stuffed scallops and various silog combinations.
The Michelin recognition has already made a significant impact. The morning after the news broke, customers immediately flocked to both establishments, demonstrating the powerful effect such awards have on local businesses.
For Eping Garcia, the honor extends beyond family pride. "It's a huge pride not only among us siblings or relatives, but also for Barangay Pasil, its constituents, and, most of all, our customers," he expressed. "We owe our growth to them since they always come back for the food."
Both establishments remain committed to their core mission: serving quality, affordable food that keeps customers returning. As Cabaron emphasized: "We just want to focus on serving our customers the best and most affordable food that they will keep coming back for."
The Bib Gourmand recognition highlights how traditional Filipino cooking methods and family recipes can compete on the global culinary stage, proving that sometimes the most extraordinary flavors come from the humblest kitchens.
